Do you have any at home tips on rust removal on my 97' Buick Century?
Posted on 18 July 2010 by dwe
I would like to remove a few spots of rust off my car by myself. What is the safest, cheapest way of doing so?
Are there any worthy touch up paints in the auto stores? If so, what brand?
Well first you need to get all the rust off the metal.
Try rusterizer Before You Buy It!
Either by sanding it off, or using a sand blaster.
Then you need to prime the metal and then paint it.
That is the correct way.
Any other way is a total waste of time, and it will come right back fast
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References :
Rust gets started at a break in the paint, letting in moisture which combines with the iron in the steel panel. Even if you cover the break with paint, the reaction will still continue without fresh water, using atmospheric oxygen that permeates the paint slowly. So, it is necessary to either mechanically or chemically remove the rust (sandblasting is a good way-but messy), or to chemically stabilize it.
Chemical rust converters, such as Extend, from Loctite, transforms red, flaky rust to a hard, dark-grey compound that prevents further rusting and forms a stable base for paint. To use a chemical rust remover, scrape and wire brush away as much of the flaky rust as possible. Remove oil or grease with a solvent such as lacquer thinner, then wet the area with rust remover, keeping it wet for about 2 hours, then hose away the residue. For stubborn rust, you might need to cover the area overnight with rags soaked in rust remover. Next, brush on a coat of converter following the instructions on the label. Once it's dry, the area is ready for painting.
At the auto parts store, match your paint code with the code in the paint-matching application guide. For small repairs, purchase a bottle of matching paint that has a brush built into the cap. If the scratch goes down to bare metal, purchase primer and metal conditioner.
Wash the repair area with mild soap and water, rinse thoroughly and then dry with a lintfree cloth. Remove wax, grease and oil with a wax remover, acetone or lacquer thinner. If rust is present, scrape away as much as possible with a single razor-blade, then treat with a rust remover followed by a rust converter (See Rust Prevention Tip).
For bare metal that's rust free, apply metal conditioner according to container directions. Follow by brushing on two or three coats of primer, allowing five minutes between coats. Let the primer dry for thirty minutes before applying color coats.
After thoroughly mixing the color touch-up paint, apply two or three coats in one direction, allowing sufficient drying time between coats. If the original paint has a clear coat, apply two very thin coats of clear to achieve proper color match.
Let the repair dry for at least a week, then use fine polishing compound on a very wet rag to smooth out the repair. Be careful not to rub through the color. Follow up by waxing and polishing.
If you're having a car repainted, make sure the shop uses a metal conditioner on bare metal. It etches the metal to eliminate microscopic rust and corrosion. Body shops also use self-etching primers to fight corrosion. If welding is being done, they should use special weld-through primers, which are applied before the pieces are welded.
The best shops also avoid using lacquer putties and fast-dry lacquer-based primer/surfacers to fill sand scratches and minor body imperfections. These primers can shrink, revealing scratches not long after the car is painted. Instead, good shops use epoxy-based high-build primer surfacers such as Morton's Eliminator and Dupont's URO Primer-Filler. These new-age primers fill scratches in one or two coats, never shrink, adhere better and are much more durable than other primers.
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References :
Well first you need to get all the rust off the metal.
Either by sanding it off, or using a sand blaster.
Then you need to prime the metal and then paint it.
That is the correct way.
Any other way is a total waste of time, and it will come right back fast
References :
15+ years auto customizing
Michigan sux – THANX GRANHOLM
Thanks for this lovely blog, even though it did take quite a long time to understand. (English is not my mother language) May I ask where you get your sources from? Many thanks!
Hey, I think your really on focus with this, I won't say I am completely on the same page, but its not really that big of a deal .